Canggu, Bali, was once a quiet village with peaceful rice fields, small local restaurants, and empty waves perfect for surfing. When Emma first arrived in 2012, she found a hidden paradise where she could learn to surf, relax, and experience Balinese culture.

But over the years, Canggu changed a lot. By 2018, it had become one of Bali’s trendiest destinations.

canggu cafe

Canggu in 2012: A Hidden Gem

In 2012, Canggu was nothing like it is today. It was a small village where only a few travelers came to surf or escape from the busier areas of Bali.

The roads were quiet, the beaches were uncrowded, and the rice fields stretched as far as the eye could see. Emma loved the simplicity of life here.

Local families lived in harmony, children played in the streets, and farmers worked hard to grow rice and vegetables. Small, family-run restaurants called Warungs served delicious Indonesian food at cheap prices.

At sunset, surfers and locals gathered on the beach, drinking cold beers and playing guitar, their surfboard types scattered in the sand, each telling a story of the waves they had chased that day. Life was slow, peaceful, and deeply connected to nature.

After falling in love with Canggu, Emma and her partner, Putu, decided to stay. A few years later, they opened a surf and yoga retreat called Pelan Pelan, which means “take it easy.”

They wanted to create a place where people could relax, enjoy Bali’s culture, and learn to surf in a quiet, natural setting.

The Rise of Tourism in Canggu

By 2018, Canggu was no longer a hidden paradise. The village had become a popular destination for tourists, digital nomads, and influencers.

More people meant more businesses, new restaurants, and modern beach clubs. The peaceful atmosphere started to fade.

The Restaurant Boom

Back in 2012, Jalan Batu Bolong—the main street in Canggu—was a simple road with only a few warungs. By 2018, this street had completely changed.

Fancy cafés and trendy restaurants popped up everywhere, serving smoothie bowls, avocado toast, and organic coffee. Many small warungs disappeared because rent became too expensive.

Landowners sold their rice fields to investors, who built restaurants and businesses for tourists. While visitors loved the new food options, locals saw their village changing before their eyes.

The Arrival of Beach Clubs

In 2012, the beaches in Canggu were quiet, and locals enjoyed simple moments with their friends. But by 2018, modern beach clubs had taken over.

Big speakers blasted loud music, and tourists paid high prices for cocktails and luxury sunbeds. Instead of the relaxed atmosphere of the past, Canggu became a place where visitors looked for the “perfect Instagram shot.”

Still, Emma knew that if you looked carefully, you could still find small, hidden spots where locals gathered to enjoy a peaceful sunset.

A New Kind of Tourist

One of the biggest changes Emma noticed was the type of people coming to Canggu. In 2012, travelers wanted to experience Bali’s culture, learn to surf, and enjoy the simple island lifestyle.

By 2018, many visitors were influencers, digital nomads, and entrepreneurs looking for stylish cafés and coworking spaces. It wasn’t just about enjoying Bali anymore—it was about taking the best pictures to share online.

Instead of sitting down and eating their meals, people first had to photograph their smoothie bowls, arrange their sunglasses neatly beside them, and write a perfect caption.

Surfing: Then and Now

Emma had her first surf lesson in Canggu, back when the beaches were empty, and learning was easy. In 2012, only a few surf schools existed, and the waves were perfect for beginners.

But by 2018, the beaches were full of surfers, making it harder for newcomers to find space. More surf schools opened, and the beaches became crowded.

While advanced surfers could still find great waves at Echo Beach and other spots outside of Canggu, beginners had a harder time learning in the busy water. That’s why many new surfers look for the best beaches in Canggu for surfing, like Batu Bolong, where the waves are gentler and more beginner-friendly.

Local Life and Challenges

Emma and Putu saw how the rapid growth of tourism affected the local way of life. Balinese culture is based on harmony—between people, nature, and the spirits.

But with more tourists came more problems:

  • Endless construction
  • Late-night parties
  • Rising costs of living

Land that had been in Balinese families for generations was sold to investors. The rice fields that once provided food and jobs were disappearing, replaced by villas and businesses.

Farmers became taxi drivers or tour guides because they could no longer afford to farm. At the same time, tourism brought good things.

It created jobs, improved infrastructure, and gave locals new opportunities. But Emma wondered—where was the balance?

Could Canggu grow without losing its soul?

pelan bali retreat

What’s Next for Canggu?

By 2018, Canggu had changed from a quiet village into a busy tourist hotspot. Emma believed that the future of Bali should focus on sustainability.

Instead of building more hotels and restaurants, the focus should be on reducing pollution, protecting the environment, and keeping Balinese culture alive. At Pelan Pelan Bali, Emma and Putu stayed true to their values.

They followed traditional Balinese ceremonies, employed local staff, and kept their retreat in harmony with nature. Located just outside of Canggu, their retreat allowed guests to enjoy both the energy of the town and the peacefulness of the countryside.

Looking back, Emma knew that change was inevitable. But she hoped that people would remember what made Bali special in the first place—the connection between nature, culture, and community.

Bali is known as the “Island of the Gods,” and she hoped it would stay that way for generations to come.

Gallery of Canggu, Bali

In Front of Deus Canggu 2012

in front of deus canggu 2012

In Front of Deus Canggu 2018

in front of deus canggu 2018

Echo Beach Canggu 2012

echo beach canggu 2012

Echo Beach Canggu 2018

echo beach canggu 2018

Echo Beach Canggu 2012

echo beach canggu view 2012

Echo Beach Canggu 2018

echo beach canggu view 2018