Maybe, before you started learning to surf you never wondered, but now you hear about the influences of currents, swell, the type of break and tides, on the wave conditions. All subjects that have a big influence on the type of waves you will find at various beaches and breaks.
Today we will focus on the tides. Tides are the rise and fall of sea levels. Tides are created by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. The gravity from the moon is stronger than the difference of gravity from the sun, due to the moon being closer to the earth than the sun. The ocean responds to the moon’s gravitational pull as the moon rotates around the Earth.
We have high tide on earth when the ocean bulges toward the moon – the side of the earth that is facing the moon.
We have low tides on earth when the high tide is on the opposite side of the Earth. The moon’s force pulls the planet, not the ocean, toward it.
In Bali tides are semidiurnal, which means they take place twice a day. We have two high tides and two low tides in a day (24 hours). After this the cycle begins again. In Bali we celebrate every full moon with a ceremony, usually the waves are very big around this day of the month, because of the strong gravitational pull of the moon.
So what is the influence of these tides on the wave conditions?
We use time tables to predict tides at any given location. For every spot, different swell hight, sand banks, period, wind direction and surf level, we have different favourite tides to surf on.
When we start surfing we have to learn how to surf on the white water waves. This are waves that are already broken and easier to stand up. A beach break or semi-beach break is perfect for beginner surfers, because when you fall you will not hit the reef. The perfect tide for these kind of breaks usually is mid to high. When the tide is low at a beach break the waves close out. There is not enough space to ride the waves on the white water, since they break close to the beach.
At our surf and yoga retreat Pelan Pelan Bali, our local experienced surf guides will do their best to always find the best tide to go surfing, depending on your level and the swell. We have different favourite beaches close to the retreat, so there is always a perfect wave to catch.